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Russia, Latvia and Lithuania

September 27, 2006

I need to update more often!

I’m sitting in a hostel in Prague, Czech Republic, at the moment, while Thad and Beccie have gone on a pilgrimage to Plzen, home of Pilsner beers and Claire is upstairs in the shower.

The past 3 weeks or so have been pretty crazy. We left Vilnius on a train to St Petersburg, which was incredibly fun. We ate too many lollies and got really hyper and giggled the whole journey, much to the dismay of the other train passengers who were trying to sleep. We hit the Russian border at 11:30 but, because of the time difference we were pushed to 12:30am – Thad’s birthday! After heaps of border control coming through we left again and went to sleep.

We woke up in St Petersburg, pretty groggy from the interrupted sleep and had a look around. I gave Thad his birthday present – a swiss army knife, which has come in handy so much since. Haha. It’s such a beautiful city – wide roads and footpaths with big old colourful buildings with beautiful facades running down the roads. We walked down the main street, Nevsky Propsekt and saw a few of the main sites – beautiful churches, canals and statues and ending with the Winter Palace, a beautiful green building that runs as far as the eye can see. It was the home of the Russian royal family until 1917 when they were killed in the revolution. Inside is the biggest art collection in the world, which we explored the next day, although we only got half way through one of the 4 floors before having to leave – and that took us 5 hours. Good grief. We also took a walking tour on the 3rd day with a local guide. He steered us away from the tourist attractions and showed us more where the Russians lived and worked which was fantastic. We discovered an arts centre that started as a squat but has grown into a fantastic community that produces a lot of non-conformist art and
underground music. We also travelled through the backyards, behind the main buildings, where everyone lives, which saves time and showed us a lot of things we’d never notice if we’d taken the main roads. St Petersburg truly is magical. I’m going to have to go back some day and stay for a few weeks.

We headed on another overnight train to Moscow, arriving at 4 in the morning which sucked cos we had to wait for it to get light before we were bold enough to leave the station. It then took us 3 hours to find our hostel, and no one would help us because we didn’t speak russian – like London nobody stops on the street even if you stand in front of them so that sucked. Eventually we were approached by a lovely guy called Peter who spoke english and was working in a local real estate office. He took us to his office, gave us cans of coke and a seat while he printed out a map with the exact
building highlighted, and then walked us to the door. Oh he was so lovely! A saint. We went back later and gave him a cake and a koala to say thankyou.

Seeing the Red Square and the Kremlin was so odd because it’s a place you just never expect to find youself standing. It was very nice though – although I think that St Basil’s cathedral was a bit overrated – Church on Spilt Blood in St Petersburg was far more impressive. We went into the Mausoleum and saw Lenin’s body which was absolutely strange! You have to walk down these completely dark stairs past all these very stern looking, heavily armed soldiers and then file past his embalmed body, swathed in red velvet and lit up. How odd. We went inside the Kremlin as well which, oddly enough, was filled with churches. It was strange being inside a place that
British spies had tried to infiltrate so many times only 15 or 20 years ago. It was pretty boring though – the only highlights being seeing the Tsar’s burial places – including those of Nicholas II and his family who were killed in the revolution – we were especially excited to see Anastacia’s plaque. The other highlight was accidentally walking on the wrong path and having a guard furiously toot his whistle at us for about a minute before we realised. He was so angry and was smacking his baton into his hand rather menacingly. Eeek.

I also had my 21st in Moscow WOO! Which was fun. The night before we had some drinks in the hostel and then headed to a bar around the corner. The barman was told it was my birthday and made me a present – a sambucca shot with whole coffee beans, set on fire. He told me I had to shot the liquid, coffee beans and all, and then breathe in the fumes that he’d captured while setting the alcohol on fire. It went straight to my head and I didn’t need any other drinks all night haha. Woke up on my birthday feeling less than pretty but that’s OK. Thad bought me a really nice necklace that has a
Rainbow Moonstone set in it from Tibet. When you hold it to the light it glows this really bright blue. We had a pretty quiet day – did a tour of the Metro system and saw all the stations – which are decorated with mosaics, stained glass and chandeliers – an odd contrast to the greyness of the buildings above ground. We leftthat night for an overnight train to Riga, Latvia, but ended up only spending 8 hours there before catching a night bus to Klaipeda, a town on the coast of Lithuania for some relaxing time. So for two days all we did was chill out on the beach – so nice! We then headed to the Hill Of Crosses, which was really more like two mounds but quite impressive nonetheless… very eerie. Lithuanians have been planting crosses here for centuries – in memory of relatives and as shrines to saints. The Soviets bulldozed them all down when they occupied Lithuania and surrounded the place with barbed wire and soldiers, threatening to send to siberia anyone who put up a cross, but still people snuck through the wire to place them. Pretty incredible.

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We made it to Poland…Alive!

September 6, 2006

Yay! We actually made it here!

After everyone was buying me drinks for my farewell party from Harrods, I managed to make it home at about 2am to find that Thad and Claire were drunker than I was, and still packing the last few bits, in between drinks and dodging the 9 australians and 1 frenchman crammed into our house.

We managed to get to the bus stop though at 4, and caught the bus and train to the airport, in perfect timing for our flight. The flight was pretty horrible cos we’d all pulled an all-nighter but pretty short at 1 1/2 hrs so it was OK. And then suddenly we were in poland! Ha ha.

We left the airport (after an emergency chicken burger) and waited for the bus to take us to the city of Gdansk, and fell asleep on the pavement at the bus stop. Eventually though we made it to our hostel and stayed there the rest of the day eating junk food to make ourselves feel better.

The next day we actually did some exploring of Gdansk, which was formerly Danzig of Germany before WW2. The town is quite small and also very industrial (“cosmopolitan” according to the guide) and we managed to walk through the Old Town TWICE without realising it because it was so small! They had a magnificent brick church that towered over everything. We went in to have a look and got caught in a mass service, so bolted. It was an odd church because some parts were very ornate, but the walls were often bare and whitewashed. We think maybe the tapestries etc were looted or destroyed either in the war or by the soviets. After walking around the very pretty town square with all the colourful building facades and the town hall, we sat in a cafe for about 3 hrs, eating pastries, still recovering.

That night we caught a bus from Gdansk to Vilnius in Lithuania, which took 13hrs. It was actually an OK trip as we had 2 seats each so we got a fair amount of sleep. Once it got light I got my first views of Lithuania, which were rolling hills with classical farmhouses punctuated by dense forests and the occasional Soviet block of flats. The walk from the bus station was a bit of a trek, took us about an hour and we all had about 18 kg of luggage on our backs. Vilnius is beautiful though I really love it, It’s got a huge Old Town (can’t miss this one) and is dotted with these enormous dominating churches that sit on winding cobblestone streets, however between these are run down dilapidated old buildings that just add to the odd dreamlike feel of the place. We went to the main cathedral and I hunted for the “miracle tile” and made a wish, and wandered through the maze of beautiful courtyards of the old university. We also saw the only statue of Frank Zappa to exist!

Yesterday we took a day trip to the town of Trakai, very close to Vilnius. Trakai is famous for it’s fairytale castle that sits on an island in the middle of a beautiful lake and surrounded by forests. It was breathtakingly pretty. We walked around the islands and inside the castle before having coffee on the side of the lake to enjoy the view more.

We are staying in a lovely hostel over the river in a suburb called Uzupis, which it’s residents have declared as a breakaway republic from Lithuania. It’s a haven for artists (and drunks) and the street art and statues and little galleries around here look fantastic. Thad and Claire at this moment are looking for the constitution of Uzupis, which has points such as “Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat”. Today is our last day here, so we’re spending it visiting the old KGB Headquarters, which is where political prisoners used to be tortured and killed and has now been
turned into a musiem of Genocide. Fun for the whole family. We’re also having another walk through Old Town before heading to the train station to catch our 17:55 train to St Petersburg, Russia.

The train takes 15 hrs I think, so hopefully it’s comfy! Tomorrow we wake up in St Petersburg, and Thad wakes up 21! Yay! He’s all grown up now!

I’m off now to explore, but just to let everyone know, Thad and I stupidly forgot to top up our mobiles before we left and so can’t contact anyone or receive calls. We can receive smses though!

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Happy New Year!

December 31, 2005

For everyone in Australia, Happy New Year! It’s still 2005 in France but we’re preparing with fireworks I bought from the supermarket, oysters, snails and french wine.

Anyway, I’ve been really naughty recently and not updated like I’m suppose to be so I’m going to be adding some entries and some backlogged, so if you’re looking at this on your friends page, make sure you have a looksee. So this brings me to my new years resolutions:

* Update my Livejournal & Diary more
* Learn a new language
* Be as adventurous as possible

Also, I’ve now been overseas for 6 MONTHS! Wow! So I sent out some new photo invites for Ringo.com but I think it’s pretty hard to navigate unless you’re a member so here’s some new links:

June 2005 – Leaving Adelaide

July 2005 – Dublin

August 2005 – Galway and Inisheer

October 2005 – Wales
October 2005 – London

December 2005 – London Christmas
December 2005 – France

Love to all!

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Bonjour!

December 26, 2005

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

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The Great Wales Cycle Attempt

October 20, 2005

After being robbed, ripped off and worked to the bone, Thad and I decided that it was due time to move on from good ol Dublin. Don’t get me wrong, I loved Dublin, but still, it was time to go. So how should we do it? Plane? Bus? Train? Nah, hell no, let’s go by BICYCLE.

So on the dawn of Oct 8th, we mounted our brand new trekking bikes, with bags on the back and a 50kg load on the trailer behind, and begun our journey. The start was the easy bit, just riding through Dublin city to the port and catching a ferry to Holyhead, Wales. Once we got there, we decided to give ourselves a break as it was our first day not working, and leaving the cycling to the next day. So we pitched our tent, cooked pasta on our little camping stove and went to sleep.

Holyhead beach at dusk . Holyhead beach at dusk 2

We planned to leave early the next day but, as is usual in the land of Michelle, sleep took priority and we left after midday.

Musing over the map, we decided that we could definitely get off the Isle of Anglesey by the end of the day, as it was about 20 miles, and worked out where we would camp that night before setting off on our first day of cycling. Now we knew it was going to be hilly, but what we didn’t realise is that while it may be easy to ride over hills without any cargo, pulling 50kg worth of stuff behind you makes the going a little tougher. But that’s okay, we’ll just push it up the big hills. We seemed to be making good time anyway. We stopped for a 4:30 lunch at a giant windmill and I spread the map out in front of me to discover that, no, we hadn’t trekked our way to the end of Anglesey, we were merely 5 miles away from where we started. Fuddleducks! The sun was lowering on the horizon so we made the horrible decision of turning back and off the bike track to a camping ground about a mile away and start again tomorrow. We rocked up at a little farm not long after and a woman was outside. I asked her if she had a camping ground. “Oh yes,” she replied, rather confused, “but only in summer!” My crestfallen face must have worried her because she hurriedly said that she could accommodate us. “Brilliant!” we said, and promptly started unpacking our tent. Her eyes travelled over our tent, and then up to the sky. “You know there’s a big storm coming? Perhaps you should stay in the caravan.” So we did, and by god are we glad we did. The caravan shook like King Kong thought he’d spied Naomi Watts in it. The next day, however, was fine and sunny, so we set off at a nice and early 10am to reach our previous goal of getting off this damn island of Angelsey.

sheepy

We found the track again, whooshed past the windmill and continued on our merry way, sharing the trailer load every so often. We decided we were to have lunch in Llanerchymedd, then pedal off of the island onto mainland Wales to camp for the night. At around 12:30, as planned, we pulled into a town and stopped for lunch. A meat pie sounded fab, so Thaddeus went into the store to buy a few while I guarded the bikes. To pay for the pies, he pulled a 50 pound note out of his pocket and handed it to the boy behind the counter. The boy looked at it oddly and scuttled over to his dad so he could inspect it. The dad twisted it in his hands, held it up to the light and scrutinised it, tried to tear the corner and finally tested it with his teeth before deciding that it was indeed a real note, and we were allowed to buy our pies. Thad returned to me outside to fin
d me sobbing into the map. Nooooo! We hadn’t reached Llanerchymedd, as we’d assumed, but were in fact in a town only half that distance away, Llantrisant. We solemnly ate our pies and considered sending half our luggage forward to London so we could actually cover some distances. We had some trouble leaving the town, as well, because some idiot had bent the cycle route signs around the poles so that they pointed in the wrong direction. Eventually we found the route though and, determined as ever, pedalled like we had never pedalled before. And damn we made some ground! We were whooshing along the tractor paths between the farms at least at the speed of sound. All we had to do was make the next town, the one we wanted to have lunch in, and we could stay at a B & B the night instead before reassessing our situation. After about 4 hours of straight pedalling, only stopping to change bikes when the trailer-carrier got too exhausted, we finally happened upon a town. Dragging my bike up the last hill, panting, covered in rain and sweat, I encountered a very smiley welshman who declared “Welcome to (name I didn’t catch)!” and stopped for a friendly chat about the dismal weather. “Could you show us where we are on the map?” I asked, and he pointed to some place called Pentraeth, about 10 miles further down the track than we were aiming for. WOOOOHOOOOOO! We actually got somewhere! We were almost off the island! Time for celebration! We found the closest campsite and pitched our tent before heading out into the surprisingly warm night to have a celebratory pub meal.

The pub was fantastic, we had the best burgers there, the first and only time I think that I’ll ever enjoy a burger that doesnt have salad on it. It was just meat, cheese and parsley, but damn it was good. The publican, who came and had a seat with us for a while because she had no other customers, told us she had them specially made for her. The first time she got them, she said, they tasted awful. She took them straight back to the butcher and said, “What’s in these that makes them taste so awful?” “Flavour enhancer,” the butcher replied. “Well take it out!” she screamed, “and take out anything else that’s not beef as well!” Mmmmmm 100% beef. Anyway, after our meal, we went back to our campsite, our bellies full of beer and burgers and fell into a comfortable sleep. Ah, but it wasn’t to last, was it! After midnight, it started raining. And it didn’t stop. The newspapers reported that 2 months worth of rain fell in one night. So much for our waterproof tent. It was soaked through, which meant all of our clothes were soaked and so were our sleeping bags and the rain STILL hadn’t stopped. SO that was it. Screw it, we thought, let’s just catch the train the rest of the way. But of course we still had to get to Bangor, where the train station was, which was still 6 miles away. And it was still raining, of course. Thad went and had a shower, and left me to consider our options of getting to Bangor. When he came back, I had contrived a perfect fantasy where a guy happened to drive past who owned a courier or shipping company and could throw our stuff onto the back of his truck and drive us to Bangor. Unfortunately, the likelihood of this happening was quite low, so we begrudgingly began to load our bikes up and prepare for the ride. Low and behold, the owner of the caravan park stopped past, took one look at our sodden selves and told us to wait there, he was getting his trailer. Hooray! He threw our bikes into the back and drove us all the way to Bangor, stopping occasionally for a bit of sightseeing, too.

We arrived at the train station in good spirits, so I ran in and demanded “We want to be on the next train to London!”, throwing all my money on the counter. “That’s 130 pounds,” the assistant said in a monotone voice. I counted all my money, even the pennies, but all I had was 120. “There’s nothing cheaper?” I asked, considerably horrified that a 2hr train journey could cost half my weekly wage. “Nope,” he responded in a voice that put Eeyore’s depressed voice to sha
me, “only that one.” I scuttled off to get more money from the magic ATM, but alas, it wasn’t being magic today, and the glorious words “Insufficient Funds” popped up onto the screen. Oh dear. I dragged my feet back to the train station and faced the assistant again. “Are you ABSOLUTELY sure there are no cheaper tickets?” I queried. “Nope, all 65 pounds.” “Is there a student discount? How about a pity discount? What if I go late at night or early in the morning?” “Nope, none.” I started to inspect the walls, seeing how easily I could rip the glass pane that divided us out and throttle his neck. While musing, he pressed a few buttons on his computer. “Oh,” he said, “if you go tomorrow morning it will be 15 pounds each.” Yay! We’ll just stay the night then. Sigh. So finally got the tickets and now all we had to do was find a place to stay. Well there was a hotel across the road, and that would do, so I went in and asked for their cheapest double room. 50 quid was the answer. 50 quid! “Are you SURE there’s none cheaper? What about a twin room?” She shook her head. “Fine,” I sighed, “I’ll take that one.” “Sorry,” she said, after tapping about her on her keyboard, “All those rooms are taken, but I have a twin room here for 40 pounds.” I resisted from banging my head against the counter and just smiled and said I’d take it.

Up at 6:30 the next morning, we bounded across the road to the train station, only hampered by the trailer continuously breaking and than deciding not to move at all, and got onto our train. We still hadn’t gotten in touch with Shelagh, whom we hoped to stay with in London, but oh well, we’d get there. We arrived in Euston Station, London at about 11am and, after hearing from Shelagh and getting directions to her house, rocked up on her doorstep shortly after. Unfortunately, Shelagh was at work so we went to the McDonalds down the road, where I slept for about 2 hours on my “Europe on A Shoestring” after reluctantly buying a lemonade to justify my presence.

Thad and I spent the next week wrapped up in blankets, sipping tea and watching satellite TV until we felt rested enough to take on London. But just in case the idea ever crosses your mind,

DON’T TRY TO CAMP AND RIDE THROUGH WALES WITH MORE THAN YOUR WEIGHT IN LUGGAGE IN OCTOBER!

The end.

Rainbow! . And again!!

The rainbows were pretty though.

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